Lost in the Middle East Part 1: The Best and the Worst of Humanity

I am currently in my Old City Jerusalem hotel internet cafe, Arab style! I arrived in Tel Aviv on Saturday 1 October... in style, thanks to my London room-mate David who arranged an upgrade to business class, I didnt want the flight to end! ... relaxing with plenty of wine and food definitely got me into the holiday mood. As it was the Sabbat, I arrived to a very quiet Tel Aviv - until the sun went down and the whole city came alive with the best looking race I have ever encountered... my neck will need some adjustment on return to the real world.


I spent the first couple of days getting into relaxation mode by walking the Bauhause (think thats how you spell it) district... its like Miami South Beach without the bull-s#$*t... buildings built on top of each other in the 'International Style'... and walking along the beach. Ive already found my favorite bars and the beach with the best views in town - if you catch my drift. Tuesday I was up at the crack of dawn and set off for Jerusalem with my Arab friend and his Hungarian Jewish with dreadlocks room-mate... 50mins in a service cab with 9 other Israelites - and a German - and I was at the centre of the world.

Found a great Arab run hotel in the Christian quarter of the old town with views of the Citadel and steps away from the Arab market... more eye candy and more food than is good for me! Spent day 1 in the old city strolling the market and walking the Via Dolorosa tracing the last steps of Jesus Christ himself... from the trial and conviction to the tomb and the 'Navel of the World'... it both builds up your faith and dismantles it, tearing away until there is so little left you dispair at the inhumanity of religion and humanity itself... wonder at the sanity of fellow human beings, marvel at the commitment and faith that drives the creation of these structures and shiver with fear and guilt at the politics that drive and devide. Three religions vaying for space and control over the very same ground - three religions so inextricably linked that they are singular in purpose, but separate in actions and belief.

Contentious and symbolic acts (such as Ariel Sharone's house, smack bang in the middle of the Arabic Quarter and over the main market street, fortified and patrolled as if it was guantanamo bay) add to the dispair and disbelief of it all.

Day 2 - I continued on, visiting the Western 'wailing' Wall in the Jewish Quarter and the Armenian Quarter... and a museum to the first hollocaust of the 20th century, perpotrated by the Ottomans but not recognised by their international 'partners', Israel, so that the massacre of 100s of thousands goes unrecognised but recent in history and as brutal and barbaric in motivation and effect as those during the second world war... losing my religion!

Tomorrow I am on the road again to the Dead Sea and the resort town of Ein Gedi in the West Bank, for some reflection on the Jerusalem experience and the quintessential and basic-pleasure activity of covering ones-self in muck. Much like your everyday in London. I had planned on taking the trip to Masada from Ein Gedi but guide books and pictures suggest my personal photographic appetite of locals and lived in history wouldnt be unsatisfied, but I am leaving my options open and letting the road be my guide. Instead I hope to visit a typical West Bank town to experience the food, culture and witness first hand life the other side of the green line.

Israelies are friendly, but are a little vague when it comes to directions, information etc... apathy would be the best way to describe the interaction. On the other hand, Arabs from the Old City and East Jerusalem, thus far, have been friendlier than people in Israel and engage until you are without a shadow of a doubt where you are going, where you have come from, what you need to know, what you have to experience and what you have just experienced.

By Friday I should be on the road back to Tel Aviv or Ramallah, depending on my energy and appetite... and maybe the daily news report @gulps@ I will spend the Sabbat and Sunday in Tel Aviv to enjoy the weekend party life and visits to some recommended 'virgin' beachs a short bus ride just north of the city... a visit to the Arab town of Jaffa if my hangover is in check, then the a daytrip or overnight to Nazareth to overload the senses again before a final day of relaxation before the journey back to London.

The Israel decision was a spontaneous one and a bit controvercial, but has so far proved to be the best decision I've ever made...

I wish you all good health and Peace! Ohm Shanti! Asalamu Aleikom! Shalom!