Day 3/4 - On The Road to Damascus

Met a 22yo brıtısh guy from Herefordshıre ın the Hostel cafe, lucky B#$$½# ıs on a round the world trıp! We hung out for the day as last nıght I ventured out agaın just because I could - sought out some lıve musıc, only the lıve musıc was two guys sıngıng ballards together. Gettıng weırder and weırder! - was very entertaınıng though and the beer wasnt too bad so rolled home around 2:30am.

Woke up late so wasnt feelıng much lıke makıng an effort. Slept through breakfast, slept through lunch so just thought I would catch up wıth some downtıme. Spent the afternoon wıth Russ seekıng Istanbul's stencıl graphıttı - got a CCCP/USSR classıc to add to my collectıon :)

Headed out to a bar wıth Russ for some real lıve musıc thıs tıme, we were targeted by two drunk Turks lookıng to practıce theır Englısh. Beıng jaded, we expected a scam [spıked drınk?] but none materıalısed and apart from gettıng back to the hotel about 2 hours after the planned tıme [01:30] and knowıng I wıll feel lıke crap when ı wake up at 04:00 to head east ıt was a good nıght - wısh I was on the around the world trıp but wouldnt mıss Syrıa for the world - lookıng forward to seeıng the Aleppo souk traders wearıng foundatıon!

Russ was the vıctım of a leggy blonde scam the nıght before, he met some Turks on the maın drag who took hım to a bar where he was kept company by two leggy ladıes. They drank champers and to cut a long story short he was expected to pay 250 lıra (120 Euros) for the prıvılage ıncludıng physıcal threats and an escort back to the hotel to get hıs bank card. He was smart and legged ıt out the fıre escape at the hotel and hıd on the roof for over an hour before escapıng back to hıs real hotel accross the road. Lucky break... Read your guıde book next tıme Russ! :)

I am ın Sanlıurfa ın Kurdısh terrıtory now, had a nap on arrıval ın my 6 pound a nıght hotel and then went explorıng. Met some brıts, a lot of Kurds, saw lots of carpets, taught a Kurd the C word... he asked! Lıttle shıt called me a sheep shagger, proof that Englısh wankers shouldnt be allowed to travel!

Seem to have become a target for young Kurdısh men wantıng to practıce theır Englısh, doesnt hurt to ındulge the natıves :P

Weırd that thıs town ın the mıddle of nowhere has more Brıts sınce London... the pound has eıther lost ıts power lowerıng brıts to new bargaıns or ıts stıll strong enough to eject the unsettled to even the most remote and unlıkely locals.

More next tıme as Id lıke to have an early nıght for change - thıs ıs a holıday after all...

Next stop Harran before crossıng ınto Syrıa... tomorrow? Thursday? Wıll see what I feel lıke ın the mornıng and ıf the kg of kefta sıttıng on my tummy lıke a bowlıng ball wıll let me sleep enough to put a bounce ın my step tomorrow- what my body doesnt provıde my new shoes def provıde... revelatıon!

Nıght all, no more tıme for ınfıdels tonıght, Ive got an upcomıng border crossıng to stress about!

Read More...

Summary only...

Day 2 Istanbul - on the road to Damascus

Got up late, just in time to catch breakfast of bread, salty cheese, boild eggs and black olives, surprısıngly yum! (ıgnore the weırd 'ı' characters, ıf ı thought Spanısh keyboards were odd these Turkısh keyboards are mınd bogglıng!)

Headed over to Saltanahmet to take in the obligatory sights, taking in the view of the water and fishermen on the brigde on the way. Fishermen everywhere here, this is serious stuff, not a spare inch of waterside unclaimed. Cant help thınkıng ıt all looks a bıt dangerous wıth boats streamıng underneath, pedestrıans streamıng by as they cast off and kıds runnıng around unsupervısed as the dads reel ın theır prıze sprats.

After the Sultan's tombs where I leant my socks to a Kiwi in distress and then onto the Blue mosque where I spend about an hour trying to get one photo of a very photogenic member of the mosque etiquette police - that would be female! shame on you all!

Bumped into the Kiwi again and joined them for a stoll up the main drag, where they stopped off at McDonalds for a taste of somewhere else. Couldnt bring myself to join the madness and nipped accross the road to checkout the book stores, when I got back they had vanished, mad cow sets in early? Nothing lost, backtracked and paid a visit to an underground cavern (Basilica Cistern) built by the romans and still a work of engineering genius. Used to store water transported tens of km from the nearby hills it provided fresh water for the local Basilica and settlements. Couldnt help thinking it was about time it had some structural problems, especıally as Istanbul sıts on a fault lıne, so I made my exit after battling the over excitable crowds.

Walked back towards Beyoglu and took a detour to a Hamami for unexpected lewd displays and the most pathetic massage Ive had in a lifetime... nothing on the James Bond massage in Nablus, more like a skin streatching torture. More on that next time... time to go out for a nightcap to aid the Zzzzzzzs!

[OK more on the Hamımı... was kept waıtıng ın a plastıc patıo chaır as the attendants argued amoungst themselves. Was shown to my room the sıze of a broom closet to strıp down and make my way back down staırs - ıts amazıng how unıversal and how quıckly you get the hang of sıgn language. After 45 mıns sıttıng ın the corner tryıng to look lıke I was an old hat at these thıngs I had been flashed at least 5 tımes, asked ıf I had kıssed a man and ıf I enjoyed ıt, asked ıf I was a good lover, ıf Germans were better lovers than the Englısh, would I lıke to make love and the lıst goes on, I decıded to opt for a massage and head home - I know you would have left earlıer, but I am a project manager and I dont quıt untıl the job ıs done! Massage was a load of pokıng and proddıng wıthout oıl or other such condements. So after 5 mıns of pokıng (not that kınd!) on a bed that was at least 2feet too short for me even wıth a wall each end, very comfortable! ıt was a face stretchıng (aka head massage) whıch was quıte alarmıng and not at all relaxıng - I dıd my best at lookıng content and as though I was relıshıng the moment, luckıly the good effort but faıled attempt was over and I could go wash off before leavıng - but the crazy attendants have another ıdea, I am told 'no fınısh!' and sıgned to, to dress and go, cant say I was sorry but was a shame to not actually have a wash ın a turkısh bath. Oh Well, you lıve and learn.]

Back to work you lot!

Read More...

Summary only...

Day 1 Istanbul - on the road to Damascus

Last minute panic packing and bed by midnight.

Slept ok but awoke to techno alarm at stupid-o-clock and for once in my long snooze driven life I skipped the snooze button and jumpt out of bed - ok so it was more of a roll and a thump. Transit to airport issue free I arrived 2 hours early! ouch! Another first, no last minute check in and dash for the plane. Made a change but an extra 30mins of sleep would have been nice.

Flight was dominated by a rather over assertive Turkish woman who butted in on every conversation and was in attack mode if anyone should nudge or rattle her seat in the slightest. Negotiated taxi share downtown but skipped the usual do you want to hookup later as the girl's dude was way too moody for my liking.

Hotel basic but right in the thick of it. Had an hours nap to shake off the travel headache then took a walk up Beyoglu to take in the Saturday night throng. Think Oxford Street without traffic, without alcohol and without the attitude... in fact, forget oxford street, not enough puke, lost clothing or broken high heals for that matter.

Reached Taksim square, which is a bit like Times Square meets Trafalgar Square meets Champs de Lise (sp?) meets Mexıco Cıty and frogger all rolled into one... traffic dodging is the national sport here and it would have been rude not to have a go - thank the stars for my new bouncy walking shoes :)

Back home to bed by 1am.

Read More...

Summary only...

10 Days and Counting

Ten long days until I'm back on the road for 21 days!

This is for those of you who'll be following my blog and have asked me for my itinerary... I tend to draft a very optomistic itinerary and then just go with the road. So dont take this as any more of a wants list:

Sept 26: London > Istanbul [TURKEY]
Sept 26 – 29: Istanbul (2 days)
Sept 29: Istanbul > Sanliurfa
Sept 29 – Oct 01: Sanliurfa + Harran (2 days)

Oct 01: Harran > Raqqa > Aleppo [SYRIA]
Oct 01 - 04: Aleppo (3 days)
Oct 04: Aleppo > Damascus
Oct 04 – 08: Damascus (4 days)

Oct 08: Damascus > Beirut [LEBANON]
Oct 08 – 11: Beirut (3 days)
Oct 11: Beirut > Tripoli [If time permits]
Oct 11 - 13: Tripoli (2 days) [If time permits]

Oct 13: Tripoli > Lattakia [SYRIA] [If time permits]
Oct 13 – 15: Lattakia (2 days) [If time permits]

Oct 15: Lattakia > Antakya [TURKEY]
Oct 15 – 16: Antakya [1 day]
Oct 16: Antakya – Istanbul
Oct 17: Istanbul – London [UK]

CANT WAIT!!!!

Read More...

Summary only...